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How to Strategically Seal the Hair Strand

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The Hair Strand: Water Based, Oil Based, then Emulsified Based Sealant

The cuticles on hair strands operate like a vent. The cuticles raise and lift and they lower and close. Some soaps tend to raise the cuticle and some conditioners tend to lower the cuticles. When you finish washing and conditioning your hair, you really want to have your cuticles lowered and closed tightly.

1. Water Based: Water based concoctions are the first to reach the permeable hair strand. They are good to soften the cuticle. They absorb and evaporate the fastest so these go on the hair first. I usually make a panthenol, glycerine, water based type of mixture and sometimes may add aloe. I might add a drop of two of vitamin e and 3-5 drops of rosemary oil to preserve it.

2. Oil and Aloe/Water Based: Oils in general are slower to absorb and they can provide nutrition to the hair along with the aloe vera. These will absorb and evaporate slower than just plain water based concoctions.

3. Heavy Cream/Emulsified Based: These tend to sit on the hair strand and hold in the moisture on the hair strand and are used to seal in the oil based (#2) and the water based (#1) concoctions.

Once you have sealed the hair strand strategically, then you can protect the hair with the covering of your choice. Please keep in mind that the covering should keep the moisture on the strand. Plastic holds moisture the best. You will have to determine what will work best for you, based upon your personal and lifestyle needs.
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Thanks for this question Dr. Diva:
this is some great information--tried it last night on my 4A hair and it is so moisturized and so soft. but i have a question about the pathenol (i bought the liquid version you suggested at snowdrift farms): what is the pathenol/water ratio for the for the pre-treatment and every other day moisturizer?
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Snowdrift recommends that the panthenol be 1-2% of your solution or mixture.

So, let's say your bottle is 22 ounces. Now let's say you want to use no more than 1% of liquid aqueous panthenol in your solution, here is the math:

What is 1% of 22 ounces?
(Which means if I want 1% of my mixture to be panthenol, in my 22 ounce water bottle, how many ounces of panthenol is that?)

What is 1% of 22 ounces? (1% is 1/100 = .01)
What is .01 of 22 ounces?
What is .01 x 22 ounces?

.01 x 22 = .22 ounces

So, what I do is round it up. I say, let me do .5 ounces. So, I put in .5 ounces of panthenol into my 22 ounce bottle. Then I add the rest of my ingredients. I don't worry about how much water to add because I know that my panthenol is only going to be .22 - .5 ounces of the solution.

This calculation, based upon the recommendation, and what you know about your hair, will help YOU determine how much panthenol should go into your spray bottle.

If you want more, you add more. If you want less, you add less.

So, all you need is to know is the size of your bottle in ounces and the percentage of panthenol you want in your mixture, then do the calculation.

Uploaded: December 16, 2008
• 35 • 12
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  • Nappology101 United States (Private)
    1 year 4 months ago
    Wow, its amazing how you have learned to break down step by step how to moisturize hair. So do you do each step separtely or do you have a spritz that includes: water, aloe vera and oils and then seal with a cream or butter?
    • Chicoro Premium user France (Private)
      1 year 4 months ago
      Hi Nappology101, how are you?!
       I do the spritz with the water and oil. Then I seal with the emulsified one (cream or butter). Exactly as you stated above. 
  • Adjoa88 Canada (Private)
    4 years 6 months ago
    This is really helpful, I've never seen this diagram before. Thanks for sharing!

    --Your hair is too gorgeous by the way; would you mind sharing your regimen; I'm just beginning my own journey. =)
    -----------------
    Girl, you better not have seen this diagram! :)! I just made it the other day. My regimen is

    detangle: water and pathenol sprayed in hair to soften and section and detangle (if hair is extremely tangled, and dry)

    pre treatment: aloe vera gel, olive oil, essential oil of rosemay (3 drops) place on dirty hair

    wash with natural shampoo

    condition with cheap protein conditioner (Le kair or Queen Helene - trying to find a natural substitute - no luck yet)

    seal strategically:
    -water based moisturizer
    -oil based moisturizer
    -thick emulsified moisturizer

    protect - usually a baggie in ponytail or braids.

    Every 6--10 weeks do clarifying wash and do a protein treatment (Looking for natural substitute for this, too)



    • (Anonymously) (Private)
      2 years 6 months ago
      Hi, if your looking for a natural substitute to your current protein treatment maybe you should look into Henna. :)
    • (Anonymously) (Private)
      3 years 4 months ago
      I'm looking at your regimen, and it makes sense, but I'm a bit stuck on the strategic sealing. Do you add each layer individually? Are you letting them dry between layers? Please help me out.
      --------
      Hi! I add each layer individually, one at a time. BUT, it is not necessary to let them dry. You just want to get the most 'watery' layer on first and the heaviest, most occlusive layer on last. The whole goal is to try and lock in the moisture onto the hair strand- albeit artificially, yet and still that's the 'strategy'. Let me know if this still is not clear to you.
  • Yuleah United States (Private)
    4 years 4 months ago
    Domo ariagato gozaimasu Chicoro sensei!! I will be using this strategy!
    --------------
    Nihongo o wakarimasu-ka ne? Sashiburi desu ne! Doko ni benkyo shimashta-ka? Tote-mo jozu-desu-ne.

    I am glad you will be using the strategy.
    • Relena (Private)
      2 years 8 months ago
      chicoro san wa nihongo mo supiengo dekimasu ka? Dou yatte benkyou shimashita ka?
      I'm impressed. Thanks for the sealing advice.
      • Chicoro Premium user France (Private)
        2 years 8 months ago
        I used to speak Japanese pretty fluently. I studied at the YMCA in Kumamoto Japan. They had a two year course to prepare foreigners to enter the University in Japan. I took the first year. Don't be impressed. I have forgotten most of it. I am sure if I spent 3 months in Japan, most of it would come back. You are welcome regarding the sealing advice. As long as it's helpful, then I am glad to give it. Thank you for the wonderful note!
  • Dr. Diva (Private)
    3 years 11 months ago
    Your answer is so, so thorough and I really appreciate the time you took to clarify this for me. Although I've had natural hair on and off for at least 20 years, I'm new at taking care of my hair myself. It takes a commitment that I thought I didn't have. But with your guidance and the help I'm getting from Afroniquely you, I am on my way to learning how to take care of my hair correctly.
    -----------
    I am glad it was helpful. The question/ goal is, "Can you do it yourself now?" If the answer is yes, then I've done my job! So now, you'll know how much panthenol to put in any size bottle at whatever percentage of solution want!

    I hope you join fotki and show us your hair progress.
  • Shooaholic United States (Private)
    3 years 11 months ago
    I sure wish this was in your GROW IT! book! ;) (The picture diagram that is...) What you are saying is essentially what I read in the book, but this picture places a visual to it. Thanks for this.
    --------------
    Hi! Thanks for the feedback. The interesting thing is that this 'visual' didn't come to me until after I had finished the book. I was hesitant to put it in the book because it was a theory that I had. I had no way to substantiate it because I hadn't seen it in other books.

    So as not to compromise the credibility of the other information in the book, which I knew was right, I didn't take a chance or risk with this. I do see that people love diagrams and pictures.The other big risk with diagrams is that I may think they look great book other people may not.

    I sure do appreciate you taking the time to provide the feedback. I am working on book number two right now. So this information is timely. Just have to figure out how to incorporate what you have suggested and which drawings to create and use.

    Glad to know that the information was helpful to you. Thank you for taking the time to write me.

    --------------
    Chicoro...I TOTALLY understand! Credibility is indeed important. Besides, your new data only ADDS more to what you've already shared with us. I've got nothin' but respect for you. Keep it up beautiful!
  • Dr. Diva (Private)
    3 years 11 months ago
    this is some great information--tried it last night on my 4A hair and it is so moisturized and so soft. but i have a question about the pathenol (i bought the liquid version you suggested at snowdrift farms): what is the pathenol/water ratio for the for the pre-treatment and every other day moisturizer?
    --------------
    Snowdrift recommends that the panthenol be 1-2% of your solution or mixture.

    So, let's say your bottle is 22 ounces. Now let's say you want to use no more than 1% of liquid aqueous panthenol in your solution, here is the math:

    What is 1% of 22 ounces?
    (Which means if I want 1% of my mixture to be panthenol, in my 22 ounce water bottle, how many ounces of panthenol is that?)

    What is 1% of 22 ounces? (1% is 1/100 = .01)
    What is .01 of 22 ounces?
    What is .01 x 22 ounces?

    .01 x 22 = .22 ounces

    So, what I do is round it up. I say, let me do .5 ounces. So, I put in .5 ounces of panthenol into my 22 ounce bottle. Then I add the rest of my ingredients. I don't worry about how much water to add because I know that my panthenol is only going to be .22 - .5 ounces of the solution.

    This calculation, based upon the recommendation, and what you know about your hair, will help YOU determine how much panthenol should go into your spray bottle.

    If you want more, you add more. If you want less, you add less.

    So, all you need is to know is the size of your bottle in ounces and the percentage of panthenol you want in your mixture, then do the calculation.

    You have a tangible, methodical way to measure and can KNOW exactly how much to put in and WHY. You can also then eyeball it and decide if that's the right amount or not.

    I always like to have a formal process that is measurable or explains to may the reason 'why' in terms that are repeatable and that I can show someone else how to do. Then I like to add things to the 'model' or calculation in this case that allow me to make something 'my own' which works for my needs and my purpose.

    Let me know if this is not clear or if you need some more clarification.
  • Valencia *will be updating in the summer* United States (Private)
    4 years 1 month ago
    Hi Chicoro,

    Awesome information, it is what I truly need! My hair dries easily. I'm going to have to try this! I have one question, does this prevent split ends and knots??? I have so many of split ends, especially the knots.. What should I do to avoid this?
    -------------
    It is probably time for you to move away from the styles where your hair is loosened. You are gaining length on your hair now. My own hair tends to knot and get split ends if I am not doing some kind of protective styling or protective setting( a term from Fluertzy). That would be my suggestion.

  • (Anonymously) (Private)
    4 years 1 month ago
    Hi! I have a water based leave in, olive oil, and raw unrefined shea butter. Would that work? Or would the shea being doing basically the same thing as the olive oil? I've read the comments and I've seen Elasta QP and Miss Jessie's Buttercreme thrown around. Should I replace shea with one of those products or one similar??
    --------------
    What you are using sounds fine to me! They all pretty much do the same thing. They protect your hair. Their evaporation and absorption rates are different. The purpose is to keep the hair coated for as long as possible. The layers you have described to me sound like what I describe with that drawing.
  • valerie (Private)
    4 years 2 months ago
    Do you do this only after the washing conditioning process only or do you do this during the week too?

    How many time a week do you follow this process?

    I wash my hair once a week, that's when I apply my hair cream. Then, during the week since my hair is up in braids, I spray them with water then apply a little avocado oil. My hair is soft afterwards but after a few days, it is bone dry

    what shoul i do?
    ---------------
    Hi Valerie,

    I do the same process as you. Then I add a step. I place a baggy or something over my head at night so my hair has the chance to stay moistened and protected for some part of the day.
  • Valerie (Private)
    4 years 2 months ago
    Hi,

    I did not get it right.

    1) could you give me an example of products or an ingredients list to have an idea for this step

    2) is it just pure oil or a product containing oil for this one?


    3)will these work as step 3

    Coconut Butter Styling Pomade:Organic virgin coconut oil, peach kernel oil, beeswax, vitamin e, & vegetable glycerin

    Vanilla Styling Creme:Organic Aloe Vera, Madagascar Vanilla, Organic Palm Oil, Beeswax, Vegetable Emulsifying Wax, Castor Oil, Rice Bran Oil, Jojoba Oil and a food grade preservative.

    Butter Moisture Whip:Organic Aloe, Vegetable Glycerin, Vegetable Wax, Distilled Water, Organic Jojoba, Tucuma Butter, Avocado Oil, Organic Kalahari Melon Seed Oil, Organic Shea Butter, Cetyl Alcohol, Organic Castor Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Vitamin E, Rice Bran Oil, and a paraben-free preservative.

    Coconut Lemongrass Creme:Distilled Water, Organic Aloe Vera, Organic Virgin Coconut Oil, a mild detangling conditioner, Vitamin E, Panthenol, Yarrow, Sage, Horsetail, Nettle, & Lavender Extracts, Fractionated Coconut Oil, a paraben-free preservative, and lemongrass essential oil.

    Natural Hair Pomade:organic castor oil, organic coconut oil, brazilian passionfruit oil, organic shea butter, ucuuba fruit butter, beeswax, fragrance


    Thank you for your help in advance
    ---------------
    This is based upon how ingredients evaporate. Water based stuff evaporates first, then oil based products evaporate a little slower and emulsified products evaporate the slowest. The goal is to retain and seal in moisture strategically.

    for step 1, you can use water, or water and aloe vera, or water and aloe vera and liquid panthenol, or water, aloe vera, liquid panthenol and 1-2 tablespoons of an oil like castor or olive oil etc. The point is, it should be mostly water.

    for step 2, I use something that has bit of oil. Or, a straight oil.

    for step 3, all of them should work. They are emulsified products.
  • Tai**Updates 04/10 United States (Private)
    4 years 3 months ago
    Hello Chi,
    I have been using dl-Panthenol in powder form for about a month now. I mix it with herb-infused distilled water and spray on my hair every other day or so. Im not exactly sure if Im using enough of the panthenol. I believe the mix is maybe 1% panthenol. Im currently wearing braids and sometiems its hard to tell if my hair is moisturized enough. Should I increase the amount of panthenol? I didn't find much on the web about the ratio of mixes. I also use herb-infused Jojoba oil and then Murumuru butter as a sealant.
    -------------
    The only thing I might suggest is that you add a liquid oil to the panthenol/ water mixture. I would start with 1-3 tablespoons of oil such as castor, olive, jojoba(its really a wax), walnut or avocado. See how that works for you. Let me know what you think and if you try it, what happens!
  • Chatamoment02....Back from Afghanistan with update United States (Private)
    4 years 3 months ago
    since i've started focusing more on hair health than curl defining i have been using this technique everyday and i must tell you my hair is sooooooffffttt and it's growing like a dream. I think i do it a lil dif though i put a leave-in, then a creamy lotion, and then coconut oil or castor oil, just wanted to say thanks! for putting this great information out there!
    ------------------------

    You are very welcome. Thank you very much for taking the time to write the feedback and let me know that you have found this helpful. I appreciate your time and I appreciate you. The encouragement is gratifying.
  • IndustriousBrown1 United States (Private)
    4 years 3 months ago
    Me again! I've been looking for panthenol online. I may or may not buy it as I don't want to turn into a product junkie! I just want to know where I can get the good stuff when I want it.
    ----------------------
    I buy it from Snowdrift Mountain online. (I am wrong! It is Snowdrift Farms and it is liquid panthenol. Sometimes it is not easily found on the site. Give them a call if you can't find it after you search for it within the site.
  • IndustriousBrown1 United States (Private)
    4 years 3 months ago
    I'm sorry, I'm confused. I read the other comments for further info, but it didn't help. Am I putting the types of products listed in that particular sequence? And if so do you have some commercial products or homemade recipes that you could suggest as examples?

    ****I thank you for trying to clarify it for me. Methinks I understand now...
    Just wanted to say that I anticipate learning lots from you---your books, website, fotki page---bless you for giving away so much of your wisdom to us for free!!! Women helping Women!
    --------------------
    This is a suggested way to do things! The concept is to try to "seal in moisture". The hair strand is the base.

    A water based product penetrates the hair strand the easiest. Water or a water based product is the best way to moisturize the hair strand.The only caveat is that it evaporates the quickest as well.

    Thus, you may need to put something on top of that. Oil doesn't absorb into the hair strand as well. Most oils sit on top of the hair. So, most but not all oils, will not evaporate as fast. So, the oil on top of the water, holds the water based product inside and on the hair strand longer. Oil has a permeability and thus, when it forms a "coating or seal" over the water on the hair strand, the water may evaporate but not as fast.

    Emulisified products, usually a product made with oil, water and some kind of emusifier or component to make the oil and water stick together, is even thicker and creates a coating over the hair that is even less penetrable than the water coating and than the oil coating. So the result is the hair is kept moisturized longer.

    At it's very basic, you can spray the hair with pure water. Then put a little olive oil over that, then put on a heavier moisturize like Elasta QP over that for a seal.

    You are not the only person to ask for clarification. I think what I will do is create a chart with some examples for people.
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