Well after 3 1/2 years, I finally ordered a Borla exhaust from TT-Stuff.

My good friend and Audi tech helped me with the installation on 10/11/2003. The cost...freebe! Thanks, Bob.

After driving it home and admiring the work, something didn't look right. the exhaust was too far down and too far out. So, Sunday I removed the muffler section and made some minor adjustments and reinstalled it.

See 'Power Coat Intake, Valve Cover and Damplifier Rear Section' below for sound insulation

it home and admiring the work, something didn't look right. the exhaust was too far down and too far out. So, Sunday I removed the muffler section and made some minor adjustments and reinstalled it.

See 'Power Coat Intake, Valve Cover and Damplifier Rear Section' below for sound insulation

After looking at all the different boost guage setups, I decided on the AWE Boost guage. The guage pod allows air to flow into the cabin instead of blocking it, which is what I wanted.

The installation was pretty straight foward. Removal of the Strut bar is required to get to the wiring loom box and the hardest part was the installation of the lower dash panel. That took several minutes. All and all, not bad.

Update: Another route into the engine bay is through a grommet above the gas pedal. Blue TTop has pics of the method. http://public.fotki.com/BlueTTop/mods/awe_boost_gauge/

The installation for a 225 should be slightly different.

installation was pretty straight foward. Removal of the Strut bar is required to get to the wiring loom box and the hardest part was the installation of the lower dash panel. That took several minutes. All and all, not bad.

Update: Another route into the engine bay is through a grommet above the gas pedal. Blue TTop has pics of the method. http://public.fotki.com/BlueTTop/mods/awe_boost_gauge/

The installation for a 225 should be slightly different.

Well, my stock dampers finally gave up the ghost and the rear tires are talking a beating from a non correcting toe adjustment. After talking to several AW members, I ordered the Eibach Pro / Bilstein Sport combo from Shox. Also included is the full K-MAC to help adjust toe and camber in the rear.

I traveled to Knoxville, TN on Saturday, March 20, 2004 where my friend helped with the installation. It looked like the day would be warm and clear - Perfect.

We started at 11:30am and by 3:30pm it started raining. We completed around 8:30pm after a 2 hr rain delay. No problem with the installation except the rear upper control arms took a little longer than expected.

First impressions: The ride is slightly 'firmer' than stock which suprised me. Otherwise, mo better. The car now enters curves flatter than before. I should have done this 3 years ago.

Thanks to Steve Schwing and Jeff Bipes for the installation pictures and thanks to Jamie for all the help.

Sport combo from Shox. Also included is the full K-MAC to help adjust toe and camber in the rear.

I traveled to Knoxville, TN on Saturday, March 20, 2004 where my friend helped with the installation. It looked like the day would be warm and clear - Perfect.

We started at 11:30am and by 3:30pm it started raining. We completed around 8:30pm after a 2 hr rain delay. No problem with the installation except the rear upper control arms took a little longer than expected.

First impressions: The ride is slightly 'firmer' than stock which suprised me. Otherwise, mo better. The car now enters curves flatter than before. I should have done this 3 years ago.

Thanks to Steve Schwing and Jeff Bipes for the installation pictures and thanks to Jamie for all the help.

I placed an order with Steve for his famous Twin Tube Distribution Airbox (TTDA) in Stainless that arrived on 4/27/2004.

As many of you know, this is a high quality product and I was excited to get it installed. I also ordered a 6-foot section of 2.5-inch neoprene air duct from Pegasus Autoracing which arrived on 04/25/04.

Installation of the airbox was a simple 15-minute installation.

However, I ran into a problem running the hose under the light as the HID control module was located there. So, on 05/24/04, I removed the front and headlight to relocate the control module. This took 3 hours. I did not want to make cuts in the car for the other hose, so I just ran the hose into the wheel well.

Update: The Pegasus hose started to fall apart after 3 months of use, so I ordered 10 feet of 05-29810 from www.aircraftspruce.com. A much better product.

Update - Replaced with ModShack's VTDA. see Below.

it installed. I also ordered a 6-foot section of 2.5-inch neoprene air duct from Pegasus Autoracing which arrived on 04/25/04.

Installation of the airbox was a simple 15-minute installation.

However, I ran into a problem running the hose under the light as the HID control module was located there. So, on 05/24/04, I removed the front and headlight to relocate the control module. This took 3 hours. I did not want to make cuts in the car for the other hose, so I just ran the hose into the wheel well.

Update: The Pegasus hose started to fall apart after 3 months of use, so I ordered 10 feet of 05-29810 from www.aircraftspruce.com. A much better product.

Update - Replaced with ModShack's VTDA. see Below.

I ordered a single valve Boost Machine from a fellow TTer which arrived on 06/25/04.

I installed the valve on 06/27/04 and after talking with 'Mr. Schwing' about the heat issue with the valve being too close to the turbo, I modified the bracket (sorry Scott) and installed it under the strut brace.

I purchased additional hose, a 5/16" male barb 2 barb, and clamps to relocate the boost machine.

Installation took less than 1 hour.

Before installation, boost peaked around 17-lbs in 3rd thru 5th and dropped to 14-lbs before loosing boost. With the valve set at 5 1/2 turns and in the same gears, boost peaks at 20-lbs and maintains 18-lbs before loosing boost. Boost peaks around 3200 rpms and by 4800 to 5300 it is around 16.

Apr. 25, 2005 - With MoFo V2 installed, the 20psi spike has dissappeared. Boost moves very smoothly to 18lbs and holds until 4500. then begins to drop off.

Click here for Chris (AxeYrCat) BM FAQ http://www.personal.kent.edu/~cplasket/BMFAQ.htm

...and Steve's ModShack info site http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/boost_machine_and/

being too close to the turbo, I modified the bracket (sorry Scott) and installed it under the strut brace.

I purchased additional hose, a 5/16" male barb 2 barb, and clamps to relocate the boost machine.

Installation took less than 1 hour.

Before installation, boost peaked around 17-lbs in 3rd thru 5th and dropped to 14-lbs before loosing boost. With the valve set at 5 1/2 turns and in the same gears, boost peaks at 20-lbs and maintains 18-lbs before loosing boost. Boost peaks around 3200 rpms and by 4800 to 5300 it is around 16.

Apr. 25, 2005 - With MoFo V2 installed, the 20psi spike has dissappeared. Boost moves very smoothly to 18lbs and holds until 4500. then begins to drop off.

Click here for Chris (AxeYrCat) BM FAQ http://www.personal.kent.edu/~cplasket/BMFAQ.htm

...and Steve's ModShack info site http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/boost_machine_and/

I picked up the hose from Forge at Waterfest 10. After talking with the rep, he assured that this is the hose for the ATC engine.

I inlisted the help of a good friend and installed it on 08/07/2004.

Long story short, this is the hose for the Mk4 VW engine. There are a couple differences - the DV and the crankcase breather reg valve are swapped and an additional vacuum inlet that had to be pluged. Other than that, the hose installed without a problem.

So you can use either hose without problems - just need to plug the top vacuum inlet.

Instllation took about 2 hours and we did everything from the top of the car.

First impressions - very smooth with power coming on earlier and maintaining boost until 6000 rpm. A nice mod and not difficult to install.

08/07/2004.

Long story short, this is the hose for the Mk4 VW engine. There are a couple differences - the DV and the crankcase breather reg valve are swapped and an additional vacuum inlet that had to be pluged. Other than that, the hose installed without a problem.

So you can use either hose without problems - just need to plug the top vacuum inlet.

Instllation took about 2 hours and we did everything from the top of the car.

First impressions - very smooth with power coming on earlier and maintaining boost until 6000 rpm. A nice mod and not difficult to install.

After seeing several cars with clear corners and painted inner housings, I decided that was for me. So, I order the smoked version from TT-Stuff on 09/06/04.

The project took over 7 hours to complete and I'm really impressed with the results.

OSIR Design makes a great product.

Thanks again to 'Mr. Schwing' for the amber lamp mod.

complete and I'm really impressed with the results.

OSIR Design makes a great product.

Thanks again to 'Mr. Schwing' for the amber lamp mod.

I orderd Energy Suspension's Dog Bone poly bushings from TT-Stuff on 09/06/04.

While I was doing the headlight clear corners, this was the perfect opportunity.

The project took less than 1 hour to complete and I'm pleased with the results. The shifter and engine seem to be tighter. You can feel a slight engine vibration in the cockpit at idle, but nothing drastic.

Pretty straight forward. Just make sure you torque everthing.

to complete and I'm pleased with the results. The shifter and engine seem to be tighter. You can feel a slight engine vibration in the cockpit at idle, but nothing drastic.

Pretty straight forward. Just make sure you torque everthing.

I ordered these from TT Stuff and installed them in about 20 minutes. Pretty easy install.

My original clear markers were broken, so it was real easy to remove them.

Well Saturday Dec. 11 was TT mod day at the ol' McClain garage. My good friend came up from Knoxville and we installed the EVO on my car and a 22mm Neuspeed rear swaybar on his TT.

I purchased the heathtshield from www.kmdtuning.com. The instructions for the heatshield was pretty straight foward. Installation took about 2 hours. The only problem we had was the support bracket was not milled on the engine side to let the bracket align with the plenum. But that will be taken care of soon.

Impressions - seems to make the car much smoother with the butt dyno telling me more low end torque.
Other info on this heatshield can be found here: http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/manifold_work/insulating_phenolic/

My only complaint is the removal of the alternator to install the new support bracket. This meant the drive belt has to be loosened and the tensioner had to be removed. After we removed the alternator, we found that all you have to do is remote the upper bolt and loosen the lower bolt. Lesson learned.

heathtshield from www.kmdtuning.com. The instructions for the heatshield was pretty straight foward. Installation took about 2 hours. The only problem we had was the support bracket was not milled on the engine side to let the bracket align with the plenum. But that will be taken care of soon.

Impressions - seems to make the car much smoother with the butt dyno telling me more low end torque.
Other info on this heatshield can be found here: http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/manifold_work/insulating_phenolic/

My only complaint is the removal of the alternator to install the new support bracket. This meant the drive belt has to be loosened and the tensioner had to be removed. After we removed the alternator, we found that all you have to do is remote the upper bolt and loosen the lower bolt. Lesson learned.

I installed these on Jan. 15.

I used a impact gun with the special tool to remove the alternator clutched pulley.

The process took about 1.5 hrs. We had to remove the headlight to make room for the impact as well as removing the sound insulator, pancake pipe, and shield.

The other two pulleys went on very easy.

After reading about the voltage drop, we put a volt meter to test the voltage drop. After letting the car idle for about 5 minutes, the voltage stayed around 12.6. The headlights were as bright at idle as with the engine at 2000 rpms.

the impact as well as removing the sound insulator, pancake pipe, and shield.

The other two pulleys went on very easy.

After reading about the voltage drop, we put a volt meter to test the voltage drop. After letting the car idle for about 5 minutes, the voltage stayed around 12.6. The headlights were as bright at idle as with the engine at 2000 rpms.

We installed the sway bar on 02/13/2005. It took about an hour. No problems removing the old bar.

Notes:
- I had to lower the exhaust and remove the heat shield.
- I used teflon tape along with the silicon grease.

1st Impression - More oversteer. I didn't believe it could make THAT much difference. The car acts even more like a go cart which is good.

- I used teflon tape along with the silicon grease.

1st Impression - More oversteer. I didn't believe it could make THAT much difference. The car acts even more like a go cart which is good.

I purchased this wheel/tire combo from www.edgeracing.com which arrived Apr. 11, 2005.

Wheels: 18x7.5 - 5x100 - ET35 - 17.5 lbs
Tires: 225/40-18

I installed these on Apr. 24. Very nice pedals and the heel-toe works good.

This install took less than an hour. Be patient and follow the instructions and you will be fine.

You will have to purchase a 10-32 tap and I also picked a #21 drill bit. I got these items for the local Sears for under $6.

The gas pedal needs to be reshape to conform. The pedal is pretty easy to shape.

purchase a 10-32 tap and I also picked a #21 drill bit. I got these items for the local Sears for under $6.

The gas pedal needs to be reshape to conform. The pedal is pretty easy to shape.

Installed Modshack TTuned GadgeTT V4 and hardwired the Escort 8500.

Installation took about 30 minutes. I made a cable using a 4 wire phone cable as per Jeff Bipes. I used switched circuit fuse #24 and ground.

I attached the 8500 to the V4 using velcro and put a peice on the bottom of the V4 to help dampen noise.

The GadgeTT V4 can be had from http://modshack.info/

and ground.

I attached the 8500 to the V4 using velcro and put a peice on the bottom of the V4 to help dampen noise.

The GadgeTT V4 can be had from http://modshack.info/

I finally decided between 20mm and 25mm spacers for the rear, I ordered the 25mm from www.evolutionsports.com (boy these are hard to come by). I decided on ECS Tuning (www.ecstuning.com) 12.5mm spacers for the front. I also ordered 43mm tapered bolts from PureMotorsport (www.purems.com).

Installation took around 30 minutes for each side and the result is fantastic.

spacers for the front. I also ordered 43mm tapered bolts from PureMotorsport (www.purems.com).

Installation took around 30 minutes for each side and the result is fantastic.

Tools needed: 17mm socket and ratchet.

- Remove the seat bench
- Remove inner and outer 17mm seat belt bolts
- Slide seat toward rear and up. Remove seat back

Time allotted: 20 minutes.

- Slide seat toward rear and up. Remove seat back

Time allotted: 20 minutes.

I picked this up from my good friend who wasn't going to use it on his VW 337 and installed it on Sunday Dec. 11.

APR uses a 'top/bottom' feed core that helps in scrubbing off heat from the turbo.

Go here for more info: http://www.goapr.com/Audi/products/intercooler_fmic_tt.html

All piping and hoses fit without cutting. We tried to use the optional 'round' pipe that replaced the 'pancake' pipe, but after several miles I noticed a metal on metal noise. After searching I found the bracket that held the pipe to the car was badly scraped by the front sway bar and had almost cut a hole into the pipe. So the 'pancake' was reinstalled.

The pipe that goes to the throttle body, holds the MAP sensor. The one APR sent him used the smaller MAP, so a trip to the machine shop was made to drill the hole to the correct size. We also had them to make a plate for the old MAP location that is located on the IC.

I had to remove the aliens and do a little triming on the inside of the cover where the passenger alien was, but that's about it.

We relocated the horns to the top and the air temp sensor to the bottom of the bumper.

Time alloted: 4-5 hours

First impressions - W O W !

The car pulls like a raped ape. No power loss until 6000 rpms.

I also lowered the Boost Machine from 4 turns to 3 as the initial runs produced 24psi in 3rd - 5th.

turbo.

Go here for more info: http://www.goapr.com/Audi/products/intercooler_fmic_tt.html

All piping and hoses fit without cutting. We tried to use the optional 'round' pipe that replaced the 'pancake' pipe, but after several miles I noticed a metal on metal noise. After searching I found the bracket that held the pipe to the car was badly scraped by the front sway bar and had almost cut a hole into the pipe. So the 'pancake' was reinstalled.

The pipe that goes to the throttle body, holds the MAP sensor. The one APR sent him used the smaller MAP, so a trip to the machine shop was made to drill the hole to the correct size. We also had them to make a plate for the old MAP location that is located on the IC.

I had to remove the aliens and do a little triming on the inside of the cover where the passenger alien was, but that's about it.

We relocated the horns to the top and the air temp sensor to the bottom of the bumper.

Time alloted: 4-5 hours

First impressions - W O W !

The car pulls like a raped ape. No power loss until 6000 rpms.

I also lowered the Boost Machine from 4 turns to 3 as the initial runs produced 24psi in 3rd - 5th.

I decided to ground the TT as many others have. I ordered the following items from www.partsexpress.com

10' 4ga wire part #: 100-196
3 paks Gold crimp loop connectors (4 pcs) part #: 095-055

I assembled the connectors like Mike's: http://public.fotki.com/mcphill/audi_stuff/interior_non-lighting/grounding_mod/

I also review Steve's gounding too: http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/grounding/

As far as wire lengths, I just measured and cut. I made a couple changes. I combined the attachments at the throttle body and I used the strut brace for the drivers side.

I used a DMM to make sure of good continuity.

Time for project: around 3 hrs.

I assembled the connectors like Mike's: http://public.fotki.com/mcphill/audi_stuff/interior_non-lighting/grounding_mod/

I also review Steve's gounding too: http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/grounding/

As far as wire lengths, I just measured and cut. I made a couple changes. I combined the attachments at the throttle body and I used the strut brace for the drivers side.

I used a DMM to make sure of good continuity.

Time for project: around 3 hrs.

This shift knob was supposed have been raffled off at TT-East 06. But it was lost in the shuffle. So, after winning 2 AWE Boost gauges and letting them go, the organizers took pity on me and awarded this great looking knob.

this great looking knob.

Picked these up at TT East 06. Very nice lights. White and bright.

Installation: 30 minutes.

Picked this up from TT-Stuff at TT East 06.

More info and theory from Dr. Schwing:
http://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/926281.phtml

Pretty straight forward install.

- Remove front bumper
- Remove passenger headlight
- Remove intake hose
- Cut and fit tee into hose
- Cut and fit 'L' hose for DV
- Fit DV into 'L' hose
- Install '90' fitting into turbo hose where DV was
- Cut and fit new DV hose from '90' fitting to DV
- Install male2male barb into new silicone vacuum hose
- Install barb side into existing vacuum hose and other end to DV.
- Check all clamps and reinstall right headlight and front bumper

Estimated time: 2.5 hours
Tools:
- 7mm, 10mm, 11mm deep well sockets
- T20 and T30 torx sockets
- Phillips and slot screw drivers
- 1/4" and 3/8" speed wrench
- 1/4" and 3/8" ratchet
- 10" 1/4" extension
- Xacto knife
- Diag cutters
- Silicone greese to lube hose

First impression: Very smooth and responsive. After a 30 minute test drive, the engine bay is defiantly cooler.

Update: After a couple of days with this setup, I noticed there was increased off-accelleration flutter. It was caused by the orientation of the DV. I re-installed the DV to the orignal orientation and the flutter vanished.

Pretty straight forward install.

- Remove front bumper
- Remove passenger headlight
- Remove intake hose
- Cut and fit tee into hose
- Cut and fit 'L' hose for DV
- Fit DV into 'L' hose
- Install '90' fitting into turbo hose where DV was
- Cut and fit new DV hose from '90' fitting to DV
- Install male2male barb into new silicone vacuum hose
- Install barb side into existing vacuum hose and other end to DV.
- Check all clamps and reinstall right headlight and front bumper

Estimated time: 2.5 hours
Tools:
- 7mm, 10mm, 11mm deep well sockets
- T20 and T30 torx sockets
- Phillips and slot screw drivers
- 1/4" and 3/8" speed wrench
- 1/4" and 3/8" ratchet
- 10" 1/4" extension
- Xacto knife
- Diag cutters
- Silicone greese to lube hose

First impression: Very smooth and responsive. After a 30 minute test drive, the engine bay is defiantly cooler.

Update: After a couple of days with this setup, I noticed there was increased off-accelleration flutter. It was caused by the orientation of the DV. I re-installed the DV to the orignal orientation and the flutter vanished.

I picked up a harness bar from Stable Energies and a Schroth Rallye Cross 4 wrap harness from HMS Motorsports.

Harness bar installation took about 20 minutes since the rear seats are out.

The Harness took around 30 minutes as I had to remove the front seat. The left side was connected along with the stock seat belt using the same bolt. The right side was connected to the seat along with the stock seat belt connector.

Tools needed:
- 18mm 3/8" deep well socket
- 17mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- 5mm allen socket or wrench
- Optional 6" long 3/8" extension

Time alloted: 1 hour

Harness took around 30 minutes as I had to remove the front seat. The left side was connected along with the stock seat belt using the same bolt. The right side was connected to the seat along with the stock seat belt connector.

Tools needed:
- 18mm 3/8" deep well socket
- 17mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- 5mm allen socket or wrench
- Optional 6" long 3/8" extension

Time alloted: 1 hour

Picked the carbon fiber mantis and oil pressure and temp VDO 52mm gauges from a fellow TTer and finally installed it.

I picked up the senders from www.42draftdesigns.com. I made a wiring harness using a 1/8" split loom to help shield and protect the wires.

Installation of the Mantis is pretty straight forward and took about 1 hour. The oil pressure sender took about 2.5 hrs and the oil temp sender about 20 minutes after I removed the sound insulator or belly pan.

With the engine up to running temps, Pressure is 15 - 20 @ idle and 60 - 70 @ speed. Temps are from 200 - 240 degrees.

Tools needed:

- T25 Torx socket
- 10mm, 19mm sockets
- 4mm, 5mm, 6mm Allen socket or wrench
- 1/4" and 3/8" ratchet
- 3" 1/4" extension
- 10" 3/8" extension
- 3/8" universial
- 18 - 22 gauge stranded wire
- Wire cutter and crimper
- 18 - 22 Female Disconnectors, Rings, and Butt Connectors

using a 1/8" split loom to help shield and protect the wires.

Installation of the Mantis is pretty straight forward and took about 1 hour. The oil pressure sender took about 2.5 hrs and the oil temp sender about 20 minutes after I removed the sound insulator or belly pan.

With the engine up to running temps, Pressure is 15 - 20 @ idle and 60 - 70 @ speed. Temps are from 200 - 240 degrees.

Tools needed:

- T25 Torx socket
- 10mm, 19mm sockets
- 4mm, 5mm, 6mm Allen socket or wrench
- 1/4" and 3/8" ratchet
- 3" 1/4" extension
- 10" 3/8" extension
- 3/8" universial
- 18 - 22 gauge stranded wire
- Wire cutter and crimper
- 18 - 22 Female Disconnectors, Rings, and Butt Connectors

I finally upgraded to the VTDA at TT-Central. It's one of those mods that is in the 'I should have done this a while ago'. It has straighten out my performance curve.

Mileage on car: 112,956.

Ordered these items from www.GPScity.com for the new Garmin Nuvi 560 GPS.

Part numbers:
RAM-HOL-GA23U - Garmin Nuvi 660 unit cradle
RAM-B-238U - 1-inch ball with diamond plate
RAM-B-201U-A - 1.75-inch short length dual 1-inch socket arm

RAM-B-238U - 1-inch ball with diamond plate
RAM-B-201U-A - 1.75-inch short length dual 1-inch socket arm

Had these items done at Shackfest 08. The valve cover gasket was leaking pretty bad, so while it was out it was coated a silver vein. The intake was coated a black wrinkle.

I also installed some Damplifier from http://www.secondskinaudio.com/vibration-mat/damplifier.php
in the rear to help reduce the interior noise from the Borla.

Update - 06/30/2008 I removed the back seat and installed damplifier. Result sound level have been reduced by 40%. The Borla still has the drone, but interior sound have been reduced to a very comfortable level.

Damplifier from http://www.secondskinaudio.com/vibration-mat/damplifier.php
in the rear to help reduce the interior noise from the Borla.

Update - 06/30/2008 I removed the back seat and installed damplifier. Result sound level have been reduced by 40%. The Borla still has the drone, but interior sound have been reduced to a very comfortable level.

Replaced my torned shift boot with a black leather with silver stitching from http://www.redlinegoods.com.

Install is straight forward and took about 30 minutes. Instructions: http://www.redlinegoods.com/AudiTTinstall.shtm.

Tools: T20 torx socket.

http://www.redlinegoods.com/AudiTTinstall.shtm.

Tools: T20 torx socket.

I decided to reloacte the vaccum reservoir that sits on top or the valve cover. This project took about 2 hours and cleans up the engine bay.

I removed the plastic harness tray and polished the fuel rail. Project took around 1 hour. Pretty easy mod.

Picked this up from another TTer. Thanks Tony!