Ithaca is located on the south shore of 40-mile-long Cayuga Lake, and is sandwiched between two gorges of great natural beauty. It's a cosmopolitan town with good restaurants (including the Moosewood vegetarian co-op), bars, and theaters. Cornell University, an Ivy League school, sits high on a hill, from which it surveys the rest of Ithaca and the splendid stripe of lake that stretches northward. On campus the top public draw is the Herbert F. Johnson Museum of Art. For a sense of the region's agricultural and artsy roots, we visited the Ithaca Farmers' Market at Steamboat Landing on the waterfront. It has an entertaining array of produce, food vendors, music, art, and crafts.